Where am I?

It feels kind of strange to keep writing about some of the weird experiences I’ve had here, considering I’m going to be back home in a matter of days, but oh well. 

The whole time I was here, I had a lot of trouble finding my way around- even if it was some place I had been before.   Even when I looked up things on the Finnish online map system, it was kind of confusing.  Here’s a map of the downtown area…

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I want my google maps.

I told some people in my lab that I was having trouble finding my way around, and the fact that I don’t have the greatest sense of direction didn’t help any.  Erno, one of my labmates was like, really? I don’t think it’s that hard or confusing…the roads are pretty straight…

But I ask you- what is NOT confusing about this?

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games and drinking

Friday night, my officemate was planning to celebrate with a couple of his friends because he just received a fellowship of some sort for his research.  He said they were just planning to meet up at a pub and play some board games, so he invited me to tag along.

I’ve noticed that the people I have interacted with here in Tampere, are really big on board games.  Not like Monopoly or Scrabble, but more strategic type games, like Risk, or Warcraft.  Anyway, the first game we played was called Guillotine. 

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The object of the game sounds disturbing when it’s first described- there are a series of “nobles” who are all sentenced to death by guillotine.  Each noble has a number of points associated with it, and basically you’re supposed to collect as many points as possible by getting certain nobles killed.  But scattered among the nobles are “tragic figures” and “martyrs”, which are worth negative points.  It’s actually pretty funny.  Anyhoo, I had a lot of fun playing this game- I won everytime!! …which is probably why we stopped playing after awhile…

The second game we played is much too complicated for me to even attempt to explain…but I lost…therefore I’m not a big fan of it.  Hehe, just kidding. 

Ok, so the more interesting part of the night was probably the bar that we were at.  This bar was…really strange.  First of all, the music selection was…well, let’s just say it ranged from Bon Jovi’s Bed of Roses to Outkast’s Roses to Michael Jackson’s Thriller to Genesis.  Very um, Euro-American.

Secondly, the bar had some questionable artwork on the wall. 

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Madonna and Child? The Last Supper? The Virgin Mary? Jesus?  IN A BAR? And the thing is, I don’t think they were trying to be funny by having a shrine to Christian figures on the wall.

Third- well, not really “third”, this has nothing to do with the bar, but the guys I was with decided to take me on a bit of a “drinking tour” of Finland.  a.k.a “let’s make Karlin taste all the awful traditional Finnish drinks”

Now, it started off ok- since it’s Christmas-time, the Finns enjoy drinking what’s called “Christmas glögg” (pronounced “gl00-gie”, as in “doogie howser”, but with a gl-).   Glögg is the scandinavian version of mulled wine.  It’s heated red wine mixed with cinnamon and cloves, vodka, raisins and almonds, and it’s served with a gingersnap cookie.   You can see the steam in the wine glass.

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So this was pretty good, although apparently it wasn’t high quality glögg (I think everytime I ask if something is good, the response is, “well- it could be better”  The Finns just are never satisfied!).  I can see how it would be a Christmas-y drink though, with the cinnamon and cloves. 

The next drink they had me try was close to being the grossest thing I have ever drank in my life.  It was worse than cough syrup.  It was worse than “the pink stuff”.  It was worse than the blood sausage I ate over a month ago.  Really.  It was that bad.  It was something called Salmiakki Koskenkorva. 

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What is Salmiakki Koskenkorva?  There’s actually a really interesting backstory to this.  So, if you look at the photo above- you can see how black the liquor is, right? Salmiakki is made of licorice root and ammonium chloride (NH4Cl…yes, i’m a dork), which is a type of salt.  How does that all add up then?  Salmiakki Koskenkorva is a really salty, black licorice flavored drink.  All together now, “ewwwww!!” (although if you’re a fan of black licorice, you’d probably enjoy this drink).   It is totally an acquired taste though- the guys I was with knew I’d hate it- but they chose not to tell me.     ha.    ha.   There is a myth that this drink was developed based on an episode of The Simpsons (or “Simpsonit” in Finnish).   You know the episode where Moe invents a new drink based on cough syrup, called the Flaming Moe?  (wow, this paragraph really highlights the enginerd in me) Some people say that the Finns saw that episode and were inspired to make their own cocktail concoction by mixing vodka with some Turkish Pepper brand, salty licorice candy.  Now, I don’t think that story is actually true, but it’d be funny it if were.  Of course, Finnish people have grown up eating this salty licorice candy since they were kids, so to them, this drink is simply delicious!  Alas, I’m not a fan of black licorice…so…yeah.  Not for me.

The third drink they made me try was Tar-flavored Schnapps.  Tar.  As in Pine-Tar.

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“Natural pine tar pitch. Ready to melt down for foodsafe watertight coatings of wood or metal containers

…turns into this?

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This was…

not good either- but not nearly as bad as the salmiakki drink before.  The tar schapps also tasted a little salty, and had a really bad odor to it, but it was a little sweeter and had a weird smoky after taste that made it seem not as bad.  I first tasted it alone, but the way they really drink this is “sake-bomb” style, by dropping a shot of it into a glass of beer.  The beer helped tame the weird taste, so it wasn’t as bad as drinking it straight.  I’m still shuddering from the salmiakki though. 

Also- they pour this tar-flavoring on top of ice cream too….

Finally, the last thing they made me try was an unexciting glass of “Mike’s Hard Lemonade”.  I mean, it wasn’t really Mike’s Hard Lemonade, but that’s what it tasted like- except a watered down, less carbonated version of it.  It was alright. Nothing new.

Whew! So there you have it.  Finnish alcohol. 

(and no, I didn’t get drunk- you wish…my genetic, “Bark/Park family tolerance” kicked in)

Out and About II

I was surprised to find out that there are no Starbucks in Finland.  Not that I’m a big coffee drinker or anything, but so far I think this is the first country I’ve been to that Starbucks has not infiltrated in a long time.   I was just so used to seeing a Starbucks store every 100 feet.  They should really get a move on it though because Finnish people are really big coffee drinkers.  Some of my labmates drink up to 7 liters of coffee a DAY! a day!! One person in my lab said she started drinking coffee when she was four years old!  What were her parents thinking?  My labmates aren’t really sure why they love their coffee so much, but they all seem to agree that coffee is a big part of their daily intake. 

  • So there is no Starbucks, but there is the always dependable McDonald’s. 

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This McDonald’s happens to be the very first McDonald’s EVER in Finland.  How historic.  I thought it was odd that the first McDonald’s popped up here in Tampere instead of Helsinki, but I guess they were sort of testing it out in Tampere to see if Finnish people would actually eat McDonald’s…and I guess they did because McDonald’s is everywhere.  The only thing I like about seeing McDonald’s in foreign countries is knowing that they’ll have a public restroom you can use, hehe.

  • This is where you have to go to buy alcohol.

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There are these “Alko” stores all around the place.  Apparently, grocery stores and convenience stores are not allowed to sell alcohol with over 4.7% alcohol content, so if you want to buy wine or anything other than cheap beer, you have to go to these stores, except that these stores are closed on the weekends…which seems odd, don’t you think?  

I’ve been told that while Finnish people do not drink alcohol often, when they drink, they drink a lot.  Like…A LOT.  Everytime I walk in the city center on either Saturday or Sunday, there is broken glass everywhere and other remnants of drunken debauchery.   Today, I saw a glass wall of a shop completely destroyed and there was a pretty bad stench in some areas.  Because of this behavior, the government imposes a huge tax on all alcohol to try and deter people from buying a lot of liquor, so it’s quite expensive.  A lot of people will go to Estonia to stock up on liquor- (as Hahna and I witnessed on our boat ride back from Estonia)

  • I was in one of the smaller shopping malls when I passed by this store…

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What is THIS?  What is wrong with this country??  Needless to say, it was a little scary.  I stopped dead in my tracks…um, no pun intended.  I was shocked that they would be selling guns so out in the open, in a regular shopping mall!! Also, because I don’t think there is a lot of violence in Tampere, it seemed a bit out of place…

…ahem…and of course…um…I was relieved to find out that those guns are fake guns.  My labmate Rami informed me that it’s actually very difficult to obtain a real gun…so the ones at that store are replicas.  Most of me was relieved…and a part of me felt stupid- I had to laugh at myself, but how was I supposed to know they were fake??? and who buys fake guns??? What’s their purpose? …although if anyone wants to know a bit of trivia about me, I have shot a gun before…when I was in middle school.  Wow, that doesn’t sound good, does it?  I was on a family vacation and we visited my dad’s friend who lived in West Virginia- my dad’s friend took my dad, my brother and me (I don’t have poor grammar- it’s supposed to be “me”) out to a field and let us shoot at some empty cans.  I’ll repeat that my dad’s friend lived in West Virginia… I don’t actually remember too much about it…I just remember the gun being very heavy and very difficult to pull the trigger.  Somehow, I don’t think it’s something I am ever going to do again.

  • Finally- I noticed that in some areas, cars park themselves on the sidewalks.  Like this car.

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No big deal, right?  well…not really…back when I didn’t know any better, I wouldn’t pay attention to where I was walking on the sidewalk, and all of a sudden I’d see a car turning onto the sidewalk, right where I was about to walk.  The cars don’t ever honk or anything to give you warning, no turn signals…so it always freaks me out when I see a car coming at me…even if it’s only going 1 mph…  It just always feels like the car is going to run me over!  I try to remember to walk on the far end of the sidewalk…but the key word in that sentence is “try“.

(p.s. the photo with the car was taken at 3 pm…and the sun was already starting to go down. it’s depressing)

Spy Museum

I continued to fulfill my desires to further educate myself through all the glorious museums Tampere has to offer by visiting…the Spy Museum. DUN DUN DUN.

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It’s a really tiny little museum that used to be a bar, but they converted it into a little shrine to spy’s of the past.   They claim that it was the first of it’s kind in the Nordic region and that it’s the only spy museum in the world- but if you do a google search,  there’s one in Washington DC. 

It was alright…some of the things they had on display seemed a little pointless- like “really tiny cameras” that they used to use to spy on people- except that they were “really tiny” back in the 60’s- so compared to the technology today, they look huge.  And some things, like telephone bugging equipment, you just had to trust that they were the real deal because they were in glass cases…so I was just like, “ok”.  But then there were a few exhibits that were interesting.  They had some of the old spy machines used in WWII, like the enigma coding machine (which, if you read about and are dorky like me- is fascinating),  KGB memorabilia, and some other old random spy equipment.   The coolest part was that they had some equipment you could try out.  Obviously, not anything REALLY cool, but they had invisible ink that you could use (if you heated the paper, the ink shows up),  one of those microphones that can pick up sounds really far away.

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a device that can alter the sound of your voice (that was a little freaky…i could make myself sound like a guy or a little kid), and sometimes they let you try out a lie detector, but unfortunately it wasn’t working when I was there. Oh, and an ultraviolet light that you could hold money or your passport under, to see all the little secret details that aren’t visible in normal light.

But the weirdest thing that they show you how to do, is to read other people’s email! They have this little setup of two computers that you can try out.  One computer is to send an email, and then the second one can intercept the email.  Isn’t that a little strange? Do they really think it’s wise to teach people how to become stalkers?  You all had better watch out…I know how to hack into your computers (no snarky comments from the BDML- that was an accident)

Actually- I don’t.  The explanation of how everything worked to hack into people’s email was in Finnish, so I got to try it, and see that it could be done, but I don’t really know HOW they do it. Too bad!  And I’m guessing they had setup some system with very low security, so I’m sure whatever method they were using wouldn’t work on most email servers…at least…that’s what I hope…

(um- I’d like to point out that these photos were taken from the museum’s website…that should give you a clue as to how serious this “museum” is)

Grocery store stress

I know I talk about the grocery store a lot, but I think other than lab, that’s where I spend most of my time!

I’ve been able to reduce the amount of time I spend in the grocery store, since I’m starting to get the hang of where things are and more importantly what things are, but it’s still a somewhat stressful endeavor each week.  Mostly it all just happens at the end.  Although, at least I’m no longer mistaking food for…other items- you see, awhile back (some of you have already heard this so you can skip this entry b/c I just cut and paste…i’m lazy…), I was in the grocery store and I’m passing through one of the aisles, and I see those tubes of pre-made chocolate chip cookie dough, you know, like pilsbury. So I think to myself, oh! cookies! that would be really yummy, especially b/c i’m feeling kind of down.  So I start to reach for a package…and then I look closer at it, and it says Pedigree. Isn’t that funny?  That’s like the dog food company back in the US.  Isn’t it strange how one company does one thing in one country, and another thing in a different country?

hm.

that’s a cute picture of a dog

hm.

wait…all these tubes have pictures of dogs on them.  (eyes get wide…)

Then I was like, oh no! no no no! These are not cookies! It’s dog food!  I. almost. bought. dog food!!! They should NOT put dog food in the same aisle as human food!!! Nor should they put dog food in the same packaging as cookie dough!! Well, except I don’t think they sell pre-made cookie dough here, so no one else would ever make the same mistake… And of course, I started to laugh at myself, except no one is there with me to share in the laughter, so to everyone else, I’m just some strange asian girl standing in front of dog food, laughing to herself!

Anyway they’re all about the self service here, so when you’re checking out, you have to bag your own groceries.  Doesn’t sound THAT bad…until you actually have to DO it.  And this is the most stressful part of my trip…

First of all- I’ve noticed that Finnish people? LOVE standing in lines.  I don’t know how many times I’ve been either at the post office, cafeterias, or stores where I’ll look around to try and figure out where I need to go to pay for whatever, so I’ll go stand where I see other people standing in line.  Then I’ll look over to either side of me and see someone at a cash register with like, no one in line, but I think to myself, “if that register was really open, I’m sure these other people would’ve moved over there, so it must not be open”…and I’ll wait in line for 5 or 10 minutes and then all of a sudden some random person walks over to the register with no one else in line and makes their purchases!! I mean seriously?  This has happened to me at least 5 times.  I think Finnish people have this strange, strange disease where if they see a line, they feel they must be in it, otherwise they feel they haven’t tortured themselves enough  😛 Either that, or they are the most patient society I have ever encountered.

So anyway, when you’re at the grocery stores, you’ll see a few registers with a huge line of people waiting, but if you just keep walking down a bit, you’ll see a bunch of empty registers just waiting to get used! I really don’t get it…

When you buy your items, you also have to buy your own grocery bags, usually they’re around 20 cents a bag, so it’s not expensive, but then you sort of have to analyze beforehand how many bags you think you’re going to need…i’ve never seen anyone get more than 3 bags though.

THEN- the bagging comes.  You pay the cashier and go to bag your food, except you have like 30 seconds to pack everything up before the next customer’s food starts coming down the belt and the cashier sort of sighs and gives you this look that says, “hurry up. NOW.” and you frantically try to stuff all your food into the bag, not packing anything properly or paying attention to the fact that you just put your eggs at the bottom of the bag and tossed in three heavy glass jars on top.  And on rare occasions, you realize you mis-calculated so the 1 bag you purchased isn’t big enough to hold everything.  Obviously, you want to buy another bag, except to do that, you have to get back in line, and leave your food that didn’t fit in the bag you bought at the end of the conveyor belt to potentially mix in with the food of the next customer, AND…well- it’s not pretty.

OR, you DO fit everything into the 1 bag you bought, but then realize that you’ve purchased the heaviest items you could possibly buy in a grocery store and now you have to walk home in the rain, on icy sidewalks, with a heavy grocery bag threatening to pull your arm out of your socket.

um. not that any of this has happened to me….of course not… 🙄

At least now I remember to wait to save the eggs for last 🙂

Movies

So, I mentioned before that I saw Marie Antoinette- it my first time going to a theater in Finland.

It’s…not that different.

Beforehand, my labmates kept telling me- “oh, our theaters are so small, you’re proabably going to think they’re tiny compared to the huge American cinemas…”

But I thought about Shoreline…(the theater nearest Stanford) and so I tried to reassure them that I was sure their theater would be fine.  I mean, anything is better than Shoreline, right?

Guess what?

Their movie theater seats are SOOOO comfy!!!  (and you probably thought I was going to say it was worse…) They were these large, plush, red seats that reclined, and it was stadium style seating.   I almost fell asleep, the movie was so boring and the seats so comfy… Plus, when you go to the movies here, you buy your tickets in advance, and there is assigned seating, as if you are going to a real theater.  So the seats themselves had the seat numbers embroidered on them in gold writing.  And the theater wasn’t even that small, so I don’t know what my labmates were talking about.   I think they’d be in for a shock if they ever came to the theaters in Palo Alto…

The only downside was that there are an enormous amount of commercials before the movie starts.  You know how we have like, 5 previews and maybe 2 commercials?  Here, it’s like 2 previews and 10 commericals.  

Celebrity sighting…sort of

When I was at the movies, we apparently had a run in with a famous Finnish athlete.

My labmate, Katri, who is into sports was pretty excited about it.  We saw this guy walk by us in the theater and Katri’s eyes got really wide and she said, “oh my gosh, did you see that? did you see who that was?? That was Tommi Evilä!!!”

And I was like, “who?” 

“Tommi Evilä!!! He’s a Finnish athlete. ”

“oh, what does he do?”

“He’s a long jumper.”

Tommi Evilä got 3rd place in the last world championships in the long jump and I guess he trains here in Tampere. 

Katri went on to explain that he was really popular with the ladies because of his good looks.  I couldn’t really remember what he looked like, since I wasn’t paying that close attention, but this is Tommi Evilä in action

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And all my female friends inquiring about any cute Finnish boys…this is Tommi Evilä… But um-  he’s not my type…and I hope you stop asking me about it now.

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The next day though, I was at lunch with some labmates and I they asked me how the movie was (We saw Marie Antoinette- it was not good.  Visually very stunning but a pretty boring movie) so I was telling them about our run in with celebrity…

“Oh, and I guess we saw Tommi Evilä”

“who?”

“um. heh. Tommi Evilä?”

“who’s that?”

“…uh.  I don’t know…Katri says he’s a long jumper?”

“Ooooohhhhhh. oh yeah…that guy. ok”

…so I guess maybe he’s not THAT famous…but I’m going to pretend that he is since I’ve never seen anyone remotely famous before.

Out and About

You know how only tourists can get away with taking photos of really random things?

I’ve been a typical tourist, taking photos of things only tourists can get away with (like butter in the grocery store)  and luckily I always look like a tourist (the only time I feel lucky to look like a tourist), so no one seems to think twice or give me strange looks for wanting to take photos of things I think are funny.

Now- I was doing some window shopping (this weekend was a holiday- All Saints Day, so the shops were closed) when I saw this.

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Am I the only person who finds this a bit disturbing, yet a little funny??? Don’t you think you’d be a messed up kid if you had that in your kitchen while you were growing up? Actually- don’t you think you’d be a messed up person if you would have this in your kitchen, period? Or maybe it makes me disturbed b/c I find some humor in this…

I continued walking and then I saw this sign for a clothing store.

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Maybe it doesn’t seem that strange to you at first glance, but then you have to ask yourself- what else would you possibly use to enter the store? the window? the ceiling? and then, I forgot to take a photo of the other side of the sign, but it said something like, “please do not enter if door is locked unless you have key”…which I suppose is one way to deter would-be burglars, but I’m pretty sure if someone is going to rob the store, a sign that politely asks you not to isn’t going to stop them.  And, I thought it was strange that the sign was in English, because NOTHING here is written in English.  Does that mean they think the foreigners are so stupid that they won’t know to use the door to get into the store? :mrgreen:

Also- Tampere has a river going through the center of the city, and there is a bridge to cross it.  On this bridge, there are 4 statues.  Here is one of them.

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It’s a naked man holding a dead squirrel. 

(shrug)

The other statues are also of nakedmen holding various other objects.  I think I’m going to have to ask someone what the meaning/significance of the statues are…unfortunately I’ve also realized that my labmates aren’t the best people to ask questions.  I feel like they don’t really know the answers to the questions I’m interested in- like- I noticed that a lot of hair salons are open pretty late (past 9pm) so I asked someone if that was common, and my labmate said, “they aren’t open that late” and I was like, “yes they are.  I walk past them all the time and they’re open”, and he said, “oh. i didn’t know that”.  And with the drier weather, my lips are getting chapped so I asked one guy in my lab where I could buy Chapstick (yes- I know Chapstick is a brand, but they knew what I was talking about- it’s called medilip here) and he said, “I don’t know…I think only the pharmacy’s carry those because it’s like medicine” but then I walked into a convenience store and saw them on a shelf and bought one, so I told my labmate you could buy them elsewhere and he said, “oh, i didn’t know that.”  In some ways the people have been very helpful…and in other ways…not so much. (sorry. random tangent)

And finally (at least for this post), I was walking past a hair salon (when they were open at an unusually late hour) and I saw these glass blowfish in their display case.  I wanted to take a photo for Judy because blowfish are her favorite fish, but since there were people inside, I felt a little strange about taking the photo.  So I went inside and asked for their permission.  Then the hairdresser smiled and said that of course I could take a photo.  In fact, she said I could pick up the fish and take a photo with it. I’m sure they didn’t think I was strange at all 🙄 …but I suppose that’s the other great thing about being somewhere temporarily- you don’t really care what other people think of you!   So here it is. 

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(for the record- I don’t know why a hair salon would have a giant glass blowfish in their display case…and the blowfish was spikey, so it actually kind of hurt to hold it)

Night “life”

“A brilliant city in many ways, Tampere received the international City Light Award 2005 for the lights in Keskutori central square especially. In Europe, Tampere remained second only to Cologne with its famous Cathedral.”

If you’ve been reading this blog- you must know how this is going to turn out.

I read the above statement in my Tampere 2006 Light and Life tourist book and thought, wow, that’s pretty cool.  I should check that out sometime- it must be really nice, especially because christmas is such a big deal here.  They probably go all out on the light decorations- heck, they even won an award for it!

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Impressive, eh? (do you see how deserted the streets are too?)

Aw, I’m just kidding! It wasn’t that bad. I mean sure, it was no Rockefeller Center, but the city looked  very pretty.

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Of course, I still don’t know how they won an award for it…maybe other cities didn’t submit an application to the contest…

One thing I AM hoping to see though is the northern lights.  Unfortunately I’m not here during the “peak months” to see them.  Oh well. I’ll definitely let you know if I ever catch them in the sky.

Oh, but just to show you know how cold it is here…that’s me.

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Even if the photo wasn’t blurry- you wouldn’t be able to see me anyway, lol!  Even though it’s really cold, I like the feeling of inhaling cold, crisp air when I step outside.  It just feels fresh and cleansing.  And I love walking around at night when it’s snowing- it’s quiet and peaceful- all you can hear is the snow crunching beneath your feet and everything has this light, white glow from the snow. 

(but then 5 minutes after I’m outside, all I want to do is run inside and have a nice hot cup of cocoa)

Oh, and that’s another thing- it took me a couple of minutes to figure out how to turn up the heat in my apartment!  I was actually starting to panic that I wouldn’t know how, and that I would have to put on all my clothes (a la Joey in Friends) to keep warm.  I have this water furnace, and there was some sort of safety lock on the dial to increase the heat.  Obviously I figured out how to work it, but now that the heat is turned up, I hear this constant trickle of water, like those water sounds on the relaxation CD’s, and all it really does is make me want to go to the bathroom at night…

Helsinki and Estonia

Last weekend my friend Hahna came to visit me in Helsinki!!!

We did some shopping and some sightseeing.  You can see the photos I took here

http://picasaweb.google.com/kbark80/HelsinkiAndTallinn

I put captions on the photos, so I won’t really talk about it too much here.

Oh, except to say that we also decided to go to Estonia for a day, since it’s close by. Sadly, I must admit that I didn’t even really know that Estonia was another country until I came out here, but you can see on this map that it’s just a small country south of Finland.  It used to be part of the Soviet Union.

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Well, to get to Estonia, you have to take a boat.  The weather on the weekend was pretty windy, so the boats on Friday and Saturday were canceled, but they were running again on Sunday, even though it was still kind of cold and windy.  For some reason, Hahna and I weren’t really that concerned about taking the boats…

But when I went into work on Monday, the first thing my labmates (who knew I was planning to go to Estonia) asked me was,

“Were you on the boat that crashed????”

!!!

Apparently, there was a boat going from Estonia to Finland over the weekend that crashed into the pier because of the heavy winds!  No one was hurt, but the side of the boat was torn into and all the passangers were evacuated and stranded. 

Thank goodness Hahna and I didn’t know about that…

Well, have a look at the photos if you want- Helsinki was a pretty nice city, but I think 2 days was enough, and Estonia had a lot of charm.  It was very pretty- the only downside was that it was really cold, rainy, and windy for most of our trip, so most of the time the streets were deserted.

Oh! Also, in Helsinki I saw the same “walking zone/no bikes” symbol on the ground, except it looked like this….

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the opposite genders from the ones in Tampere!

…and I’m sure I’m the only person who finds this interesting…

But it was really great seeing Hahna and hanging out with her- we don’t get to hang out too much seeing as how we live on opposite ends of the country!  

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